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Archive for June, 2010

Talkeetna reloaded

June 29, 2010 7 comments

RO: Am ajuns ieri seara in Talkeetna. Cum ajung la o tastatura adevarata am sa scriu detalii si am sa pun poze. Pana atunci, in cateva cuvinte:

24 iunie ora 11:00 pm am ajuns pe varful muntelui Denali (6194m altitudine) pe traseul “Cassin” Alaska 5, 5.8, AI 4, 2400 m diferenta de nivel.

Am parcurs traseul in maniera solo (integral), adica fara sa folosesc coarda sau alte sisteme de asigurare.

Am intrat in traseu in 21 iunie si am ajuns pe vΓ’rf in 24 iunie.

EN: Back in Talkeetna since last night. As soon as i can get to a real keyboard I’ll write more details and upload photos.

In short: on 24th of June at 11:00pm I reached the summit of Denali (6194m alt) via the “Cassin” route – Alaska 5, 5.8, AI 4.

I climbed the route solo and onsight.

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25 iunie 2010 (High Camp) / 25 June 2010 (High Camp)

June 25, 2010 7 comments

25 iunie ora 2:30 a.m. am ajuns in HIGH CAMP – cand ma trezesc pornesc spre Ski Hill.

24 iunie 2010 11pm – varful / 24 june 2010 11pm – summit

June 25, 2010 3 comments

RO: Joi, 24 iunie ora 11 p.m. varful Denali 6194m altitudine via traseul “Cassin” solo.

EN: Thursday 24th of June, 11pm, summit of Denali (6194m) via “Cassin” route, solo

24 Iunie spre varf / 24 june – towards summit

June 24, 2010 3 comments

Este 2.45 AM si sunt la 5350m in bivuacul de dupa 3rd ROCKBAND. Astazi de dimineata pornesc spre varf.

23 iunie 2010 – 4785m / 23 June 2010 – 4785m

June 24, 2010 1 comment

Ieri, 22 iunie am ajuns in tabara dintre 1ST & 2ND ROCK BAND la 4785m. Ieri pm. ninsoare si vreme rea. Azi incerc sa ajung la 5300 – 5500m

Start pt Cassin / Start on the Cassin

June 20, 2010 Comments off

“There are always a multitude of reasons on a big mountain for not going on but the most powerful, the one which decides above all others, is the lack of will.” Joe Tasker

RO: Rontai un morcov! Si o bucata de paine. πŸ™‚ Fabulos!

Mic dejun: omleta de 3 oua cu rosii, ardei si multa paine πŸ™‚

Ieri dupa-masa Marius si TeoΒ  au fost pana la KIA Base Camp si pachetul de la Tom fusese livrat. Nu gasise tot ce era pe lista dar o parte din alimente tot au ajuns: 12 oua, o paine mica, biscuiti, ciocolata, lapte, zahar, alune, un gogosar, un morcov, un castravete, 4 rosii, 2 mere… Baietii s-au ales cu o bucata de sunca, niste lipii si o sticla de whisky.

EN: I’m chewing on a carrot! And on a loaf of bread! πŸ™‚ Fabulous!

Breakfast: scrambled eggs (3), tomatoes, peppers and loats of fresh bread! πŸ™‚

Yesterday afternoon Marius and Teo went to KIA Base Camp and the parcel from Tom has been delivered. He did not find everything on the list but at least he found some of it: a dozen eggs, a loaf of bread, biscuits, chocolate, milk, sugar, peanuts,Β  couple of peppers, four tomatoes, a cucumber… And the boys got some ham, some pita bread and a bottle of whisky…

RO: Aseara a inceput din nou sa ninga si s-a incalzit foarte mult – adica suficient cat sa transforme ninsoarea in lapovita. Prognoza meteo via KIA/NPS indica imbunatatire in conditiile meteo incepand de azi. Mark Westman si Jesse ? au pornit ieri dupamasa spre E Fork pentru a intra in Traseul Slovac.

EN: Last evening it started snowing again then temperature rose, enough to transform it in sleet. The weather forecast via KIA/NPS suggests an improvement starting with today. Mark Westman and Jesse ? left yesterday to the E Fork for the Slovak Route.

RO: Dupa schimbarea (incalzirea) in vreme de ieri, azi noapte, la 11:12 pm altimetrul arata 2345m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometrul 764 hPa, temperatura in cort +1.2 grade Celsius, temperatura afara -3 grade Celsius.

EN: After the change (warming) in weather yesterday, last night, at 11:12 pm the altimeter was showing 2345m alt (GPS 2327m alt), the barometer was showing 764 hPa, the temperature in tent was +1.2 centigrades and outside -3 centigrades.

RO: Acum, 1:31pm altimetrul arata 2310m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometrul arata 766 hPa, temperatura este peste 0 grade Celsius si cerul senin.

Peste 20 de minute pornesc spre Cassin, sper sa intru maine in traseu si sa I’ll termin pana pe 25 iunie si sa pot cobora la NE Fork Camp pana pe 26-27 iunie.

EN: Now, at 1:31pm the altimeter shows 2310m alt (GPS 2327m alt), barometer shows 766hPa, the temperature is above 0 centigrades and the sky is clear.

In 20 minutes i’m leaving for the Cassin. I hope to get oon it tomorrow and finish it before the 25th then descend back to the NE Fork by the 27th or 28th.


Sperante / Hopes

June 19, 2010 Comments off

RO: Ieri (18) dupamasa ninsoarea s-a domolit apoi s-a oprit. Azi (19) a nins in reprize insa foarte usor. Sunt ceva sperante… Daca vremea ramane macar asa maine (20) pornesc spre Cassin si sper sa intru in traseu pana pe 21 iunie.

Pentru deplasare prin “Valley of Death” depind de altii care au drum spre “West Rib” sau “Cassin” (in cazul asta Marius si Teo). Daca mai trec inca cateva zile si nu ne pornim, Marius va trebui sa se intoarca si cum planul lor pentru “West Rib” se dizolva, asa si sansele mele de a ajunge la baza traseului… Asta daca nu gasesc alt grup de care sa ma lipesc pentru a naviga printre crevase… Din pacate, dupa saracii belgieni, de 10 zile nimeni nu s-a prezentat a fi doritor pentru traseele astea…

Dupa expeditia incep sa-mi fac planuri pentru un concediu de recuperare, la soare, in….. Patagonia πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

EN: Yesterday (18th) afternoon the snowfall slowed down then stopped. Today (19th) snowed in light showers. There is still some hope… If weather stays at least as it is now, tomorrow (20th) I’m off to the Cassin and hopefully get on the route by the 21st of June.

To go through the “Valley of Death” I depend on hitching a ride with others with the destination “West Rib” or “Cassin” – in this case Marius and Teo. However, if this drags on any longer Marius will have to leave and with their plans for the “Rib” vanishing, so it vanishes my ride. That unless I can find another group I could join to travel through the maze of crevasses.. Unfortunately, after the poor Belgians, for the last 10 days there have been no suitors for either of these routes.

After this expedition I’m planning on a R&R holiday in the sun in….. Patagonia πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚ πŸ™‚

RASPUNSURI LA SMS-uri:

@ Alex: ceva soare de reancarcat bateria este dar nu prea mult πŸ˜€Β  Ceata e suficient de groasa ca sa am probleme cu receptia satelitului la telefon. πŸ™‚ Multumeesc pentru urari!

@ Dana: Merci! πŸ™‚ Mai mare nevoie de senin decat de caldura darr primim orice cu bucurie πŸ˜‰ o bere URSUS ar fi de mare ajutor acum – mai bine o lada :))))))))