Home > Uncategorized > Ziua 19 / Day 19

Ziua 19 / Day 19

June 17, 2010

“It’s the wrong kind of place

To be thinking of you

It’s the wrong, time,

For somebody new,

It’s a small, crime

And I got no excuse!

And is that allright? Yeah!

Give my gun away when it’s loaded?

And is that allright? Yeah!

If you don’t shoot it how am I supposed to hold it?

And is that allright? Yeah!”

RO: Am fost ieri (16 iunie) pana la KIA Base Camp (9.6 km departare) pentru a recupera cortul in care a stat Tom la plecare si sa vad daca a trimis ceva de mancare. Tabara era plina cu oameni asteptand ca situatia meteo sa se imbunatateasca ca sa poata zbura. Avionul cu care a plecat Tom a fost ultimul in ultimele zile.

Am vorbit cu doi rangeri/alpinisti locali care asteapta si ei conditii decente pentru a face “Slovak Direct”. Se pare insa ca la conditiile actuale atat “Cassin”cat si “Slovak Direct” nu au nici o sansa… Nu pentru catva timp si asta doar daca vremea se imbunatateste dramatic azi… “Worst June I have ever seen here” spunea unul dintre rangeri…

EN: Yesterday, 16th of June, I went to KIA Base Camp (6 miles away) to recover the tent Tom stayed in and to see if he sent me some food. I recovered the tent allright… The camp was full of people waiting for decent weather to fly out and Tom’s flight seems to have been the last so far.

I have spoken to two rangers/local climbers who are also waiting for a break in weather to try the “Slovak Direct”. It seems though, that in current conditions, neither the “Cassin” nor the “Slovak Direct” are a viable option for quite a while… And that if weather changes dramatically for the better now! “Worst June I’ve ever seen here” was saying one of the rangers…

RO: Azi e a patra zi ca ninge non-stop. Nu doar a patra zi ca ninge – de nins a nins 99% din timp de cand am ajuns aici. E a patra  zi de cand ninsoarea nu s-a oprit nici macar 5 minute… Daca acum s-ar opri tot va trebui sa astept intre 24 si 48 de ore minim pentru a putea trece la limita acceptabilului prin ‘Valley of Death’… Si apoi ramane problema “Cowboy traverse/Knife Edge Ridge” care in astfel de conditii nu se poate catara… Sunt intr-un impas…

EN: This is the 4th day that it snows non-stop. It’s not that it snows – it has been snowing 99% of the time i’ve been here, in Denali, but now it hadn’t had not even a 5 minute break for the last 4 days… Now, even if it would stop I’d still have to wait at least 24 to 48 hours before I could pass through the “Valley of Death” in acceptable risk condition. But then remains the “Cowboy Traverse” which I seriously doubt can be decently climbed in such conditions… I feel like i’m facing a wall here…

RO: Prognoza de la rangeri sugera o imbunatatire pe sambata… Vestile pe care le am de acasa (info de pe site-ul meteo din Fairbanks) indica ninsori pana pe 21 cu cota cea mai ridicata sambata seara… Ce sa mai cred?

Mancarea o aveam calculata pentru 24 de zile plus mancare mai frugala pentru “Cassin” inca 5 zile. Deja am ajuns in ziua 19. Conform planului de acasa acum ar trebui sa cobor de pe “Cassin”. Am lasat un interval de 5 zile de vreme proasta insa azi se ‘consuma’ ultima zi… Daca mancarea trimisa de Tom ajunge saptamana asta mai am o  extensie de vreo 5-6 zile de mancare dupa care va trebui sa rationez… Gazul la fel.

EN: The weather forecast I heard from the rangers suggested an improvement for Saturday. The news I have from home (off the weather site from Fairbanks) suggest heavy snowfall until the 21st with the worst being Saturday evening… What can I believe?

My food was planned for 24 days plus 5 days of lighter food for the route (Cassin). Now I am on my 19th day…. According to the plan on paper now I should be descending the “Cassin”. I left myself a buffer of 5 days stormy weater but today I’m using up that last day too. If the food I asked Tom to send shall arrive by the end of this week then I get a 5-6 days extension after which I should start rationing. Same with the fuel.

RO: Ieri m-am uitat si la obiectivul secundar: Mini-Moonflower / North Coulouir pe Mt. Hunter. Din aceleasi motive traseul este impracticabil. Seracurile de deasupra elibereaza non-stop avalanse pe linia traseului.

Mt Foraker nici el nu este practicabil. Colin Haley si cu Bjorn ? au incercat deschiderea unui nou traseu cand coboram eu spre NE Fork si au fost prinsi de furtuna pe retragere. Colin e acum in cort, la KIA Base Camp cu degeraturi la picioare asteptand un zbor spre Talkeetna.

Nici elicopterul SAR nu a putut porni spre baza traseului Cassin pentru a recupera de acolo ce era de recuperat.

In aceste conditii va trebui sa ma gandesc serios la obiective tehice alternative… Care cum or fi in conditie… Varful pe ruta normala (West Buttress) nu o consider o optiune satisfacatoare.

EN: Yesterday I looked at my secondary objective: the Mini-Moonflower / North Coulouir on Mt. Hunter. On the same reasons the route is out of condition, the top mushrooms releasing constant avalanches down the couloir.

Mt. Foraker is also out of condition. While I was descending to the NE Fork, Colin Haley and Bjorn ? Were trying a new route on it just to be caught in a storm on the descent. Colin is now at KIA Base Camp with frostbitten feet waiting for a flight out…

Not even the SAR helicopter could reach the base of the Cassin in order to remove the body of the fallen Belgian climber…

In these circumstances I should start considering alternative  technical objectives – which there may be in reasonable condition. The summit via the West Buttress I don’t see as a target.

RO:

RASPUNSURI LA MESAJE:

Multumesc pentru SMS-uri!

@ Cami: ma bucur sa vad ca ai iesit din barlog 🙂 Am sa calc cu grija! 🙂

@ Uca: prima jumatate a lui iulie. Baraj. Am zis! 😉

@ Anonim: Multumesc pentru gandurile bune! Asa sa fie!

@ Kati: Multumesc! Aici e chiar opusul :)) Zbor lin si lung iti doresc! 🙂

@ Justin: Bafta lotului la Moscova!

@ Dana: Merci. Daca aflu vesti de la Ioana iti transmit. Nici sus vremea nu e mai buna din ce am auzit de la cei ce coboara si de la rangeri.

@ Marcel: 🙂 merci!


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